Gastronome

VOL1 2019

Gastronome is the official publication of the U.S. Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. The magazine provides coverage of local, regional, national and international Chaîne events as well as feature stories about members and member establishments.

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Pirates at the Gates of Spring BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli WHEN DECIDING WHAT to name their new fish house, most owners would never dream of calling it Mooncusser. Yet Co-Owners Ian Calhoun and Vincent Vela did just that. According to several online dictionar- ies, a mooncusser is a "land-based pirate who, on dark nights… would demolish any… lighthouses or beacons, erect a decoy signal fire in a…misleading location, and then, after having induced a shipwreck…plun- der the wreckage for valuables." Perhaps the two chose the name to evoke the idea of rebel pirates shaking the foundation of Boston's culinary world. Located in a curi- ous triangular structure reminiscent of the Flatiron Building in Manhattan, Mooncusser uses all three floors, with a casual bar on the bottom floor, kitchens on the second floor, and the dining room at the top. Co-Owners Calhoun and Vela, along with Executive Chef Carolyn Johnson, developed the acclaimed 80 Thoreau in Concord, Massachusetts. Their outsider approach has served them well as Mooncusser has already distinguished itself from other great Boston fish houses. On March 11, 2018, Boston Bailliage members, bolstered by early signs of spring, were further delighted by their evening at Mooncusser. So, raise the Jolly Roger, draw your cutlass, and... Vive la Chaîne! G BOSTON Mooncusser Fish House March 11, 2018 SPANISH MACKEREL CRUDO Meyer Lemon, Smoked Chili Serge Laporte Cuvéee des M.a.g.e.s Sancerre 2015 SEARED BAY SCALLOPS Lentils, Wild Mushrooms, Beet Gastrique Couly-Dutheil Chinon 2016 WILD BASS Caviar, Kohlrabi, Tarragon Bourride Domaine Servin Bougros Chablis 2012 GRILLED TUNA Chestnut, Cabbage, Truffle Domaine de la Ferté Givry Servoisine 2015 CRÈME FRAÎCHE PANNA COTTA Lemon, Poppy Seed, Fennel Château la Caussade Sainte- Croix-du-Mont 2012 PHOTOS BY MARSHALL BERENSON AND KATHY LASHAY BERENSON Vice Conseiller Culinaire Rabih Jaber, Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Marshall Berenson, Executive Chef Carolyn Johnson, Co-Owner Ian Calhoun, Co-Owner Vincent Vela, and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Camilo Gutierrez. Basma Jaber, Dame Patricia Hurst, and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Rabih Jaber. Co-Owner Ian Calhoun and Co-Owner Vincent Vela. Officier Kathy LaShay Berenson, Kerry Rosengarten, Elena Kazlaite, and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Camilo Gutierrez. Megan Nelson, Chef Rôtisseur Patrick Kilduff, Jane Kester, Chef Mark Greene, Carl Kester, and Dan Nelson. A mooncusser is a land-based pirate. BAILLIAGES 2 0 1 9 v 1 :: G A S T R O N O M E :: 89

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